Cosmetic compositions containing a starch and an ester and the use thereof

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one starch and at least one ester selected from (1) liquid esters from a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol, with at least one from the acid or the alcohol is branched or possesses at least one carbon-carbon double bond; and (2) esters from a C7-C30 aromatic acid having a carboxylic group that is directly linked to the aromatic ring, and a C1-C30 alcohol. The inventive composition is substantially free of soap. This composition has a “melting” texture and can be easily rinsed off. Hair treated with this composition has a soft feel with no residues. The inventive composition is preferably suitable for washing and/or conditioning keratinous materials, such as hair or skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising: acosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific carboxylic ester,and at least one starch.

It is well known that hair which has been sensitized (i.e., damagedand/or embrittled) to various degrees under the action of atmosphericagents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such ascoloring, bleaching and/or perming, is often difficult to disentangleand to style, and lacks softness.

Proposals have already been made for the treatment of keratin materials,for example, hair with cosmetic compositions containing thickeningpolysaccharides such as, starch or celluloses.

Such compositions, however, have drawbacks such as problems ofrinsability, problems of stability to acidic pH, difficulties indistribution on the keratin materials, and inadequate cosmeticproperties.

Recommendations have already been made to use cationic polymers incompositions for washing or caring for keratin materials such as thehair in order to facilitate the disentangling of the hair and to impartto it softness and suppleness. The use of cationic polymers for thispurpose presents a variety of drawbacks. Owing to their high affinityfor the hair, some of these polymers are deposited to a substantialextent in the course of repeated uses, and lead to undesirable effectssuch as an unpleasant heavy feel, a stiffening of the hair, and aninterfiber adhesion which impacts styling.

Proposals have already been made to use oils such as vegetable or animaloils or else fatty acid esters as a conditioner. However, the keratinmaterials treated with these compositions usually have a critical greasyfeel.

In summary, it is found that state of the art cosmetic compositions donot give complete satisfaction.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The applicant has now found that the combination of a starch with aspecific carboxylic ester allows these drawbacks to be remedied.

Consequently, following the major research efforts, it has now beenfound by the applicant that the use of compositions, preferably haircarecompositions, based on a specific ester and a starch allows the problemsset out above to be limited or even suppressed. The hair is easy todisentangle and is smooth from root to tip, with an improvement in thehold of the style.

Moreover, this combination imparts a “melting” texture to the cosmeticcompositions: that is, a texture which disappears rapidly into the hair.Hair treated with this composition has a soft feel with no residues.

Moreover, the compositions of the invention, when applied to the skin,for example, in the form of a foam bath or shower gel, provide animprovement in the softness of the skin.

One aspect of the present invention provides new cosmetic compositionscomprising:

-   -   a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium; at least one starch;    -   at least one carboxylic ester in an amount of up to 10% based on        the weight of the cosmetic composition wherein the carboxylic        ester is selected from

-   1) liquid esters of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol,    wherein at least one of the acid or the alcohol is branched or    possesses at least one carbon-carbon double bond, or

-   2) esters of a C7-C30 aromatic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol, wherein    the aromatic acid has carboxyl group directly bonded to the aromatic    acid's ring;, at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total    weight of the composition; and up to 20% by weight of fatty phase    relative to the total weight of the composition,    with the provisos that the composition is substantially free from    fatty acid soap, the composition is free of nonsilicone cationic    polymer if the starch is a starch phosphate, and, the carboxylic    ester is not isopropyl palmitate or diisopropyl adipate, if the    composition comprises a phosphorylated starch derivative, at least    one thickener, and less than 3% by weight of surfactant.

Second aspect of the present invention provides new cosmeticcompositions comprising:

-   -   a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium; at least one starch;    -   at least one carboxylic ester in an amount of up to 10% based on        the weight of the cosmetic composition wherein the carboxylic        ester is selected from

-   1) liquid esters of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol,    wherein at least one of the acid or the alcohol is branched or    possesses at least one carbon-carbon double bond, or

-   2) esters of a C7-C30 aromatic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol, wherein    the aromatic acid has carboxyl group directly bonded to the aromatic    acid's ring; at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total    weight of the composition; and up to 20% by weight of fatty phase    relative to the total weight of the composition,    with the provisos that the composition is substantially free from    fatty acid soap, the composition is free of nonsilicone cationic    polymer if the starch is a starch phosphate, and, the carboxylic    ester is not isopropyl palmitate or diisopropyl adipate, if the    composition comprises at least one thickener, and less than 3% by    weight of surfactant.

Third aspect of the invention provides for a method of washing or caringfor keratinous materials by applying the cosmetic composition definedabove to keratinous materials.

Fourth aspect of the invention provides for a method of treating orconditioning keratinous materials by applying the cosmetic compositiondefined above to keratinous materials.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The different subject matter of the invention will now be detailed. Allof the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the presentinvention that are given below are valid for all of the subject matterof the invention.

Fatty acid soaps for the purposes of the invention are an alkali metalor alkaline earth metal or fatty amine salt of a C10-C18 fatty acid,stearic acid and isostearic acid.

“Substantially free from fatty acid soaps” means for the purposes of theinvention that the concentration of fatty acid soaps is less than orequal to approximately 1.5% by weight, preferably less thanapproximately 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase comprises all fats which are insoluble in water atambient temperature of the composition, such as, fatty esters, vegetableoils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes,and silicones. The fatty phase represents preferably from 0.001 to 15%by weight and more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition and more preferably still from 0.5 to 8%by weight.

The composition according to the invention contains less than 10% byweight of fatty esters. By fatty esters are meant the esters accordingto the invention and esters of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and a C1-C30alcohol which do not have at least one of the acid or the alcoholbranched or possess at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

The starches which can be used in the present invention are morepreferably macromolecules in the form of polymers composed of elementaryunits which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units andtheir assembly permits a distinction to be made between amylose (linearpolymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions ofamylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary asa function of the botanical origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used in the present invention may originatebotanically from cereals or else from root crops. Accordingly thestarches are selected for example from corn starch, rice starch, maniocstarch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch,sorghum starch, or pea starch.

The starches are generally in the form of a white powder which isinsoluble in cold water and whose elementary particles have a sizeranging from 3 to 100 microns.

The starches used in the composition of the invention can be modified byone or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation,crosslinking, esterification, and/or thermal treatments.

For example, these reactions may be carried out as follows:

-   pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example,    drying and cooking in a drying drum);-   oxidation with strong oxidizing agents, resulting in the    introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and in the    depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example, by treating an    aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);-   crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the    hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thereby be    bonded to one another (for example, with glyceryl and/or phosphate    groups);-   esterification in an alkaline medium for the grafting of functional    groups, preferably C1-C6 acyl (acetyl) groups, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl    (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl) groups, carboxymethyl groups, and    octenylsuccinic groups. By crosslinking with phosphorus compounds it    is possible, for example, to obtain monostarch phosphates (of the    type St-O—PO—(OX)₂), distarch phosphates (of the type    St-O—PO—(OX)—O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type    St-O—PO—(O-St)₂) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes, preferably, alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium),alkaline-earth metals (for example, calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts,amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,triethanolamine, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, or ammonium salts obtainedfrom basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithineand citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate,sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodiumtrimetaphosphate.

Preference will be given to using distarch phosphates or compounds richin distarch phosphate, such as the product proposed under the referencesPREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated manioc distarchphosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc distarch phosphate) orPREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc distarch phosphate) by theAVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corndistarch phosphate).

In accordance with the invention it is also possible to use amphotericstarches; these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groupsand one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can bebonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to differentreactive sites; preferably they are bonded to the same reactive site.The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type,preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary,tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are selectedpreferably from the compounds of the following formulae:

in which:

-   St-O represents a starch molecule,-   R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl    radical,-   R′, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl    radical or a —COOH group,-   n is an integer 2 or 3,-   M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal    or an alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH₄, a quaternary    ammonium or an organic amine, and-   R″ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having from 1 to    18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 5,455,340 andU.S. Pat. No. 4,017,460, which are included by reference. The starchmolecules may be obtained from any of the plant sources of starch, suchas, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It isalso possible to use the hydrolyzates of the abovementioned starches.The starch is preferably obtained from potato.

The starches of formula (I) or (II) can be used according to theinvention. More preferably used are starches modified with2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, i.e., the starches of formula (I) or(II) in which R, R′, R″ and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is 2.

The starch or starches are used preferably in an amount ranging from0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.More preferably this amount ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition, and more preferably still from0.1 to 10% by weight.

The esters according to the invention are preferably liquid esters whichare insoluble in water. The water-insoluble liquid carboxylic esters areinsoluble in water at a concentration at or above 0.1% by weight inwater at 25° C.; that is to say that, under these conditions, they donot form a transparent, macroscopically isotropic solution.

The total carbon number of the esters of the invention is generallygreater than or equal to 10 and preferably less than 100 and morepreferably less than 80.

In accordance with the invention the esters used are liquid at ambienttemperature (from 20 to 30° C.).

The liquid esters of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol, oneat least of the acid or the alcohol being branched or unsaturated, areselected, for example, from esters of a C6-C24 carboxylic acid and aC3-C20 alcohol.

As examples of liquid esters which can be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetylbehenate; isocetyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyllactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; decyl oleate;isocetyl isotearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyloctanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate;myristyl isostearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octylisostearate; octyldodecyl erucate; isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branched alkyl myristates such asisopropyl myristate, t-butyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexylisostearate, butyl isostearate, isobutyl stearate; and 2-hexyldecyllaurate.

It is also possible to use the esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic ortricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of C2-C26 di-,tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylicor tricarboxylic acids.

As examples of esters which can be used according to the invention,mention may be made of diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate;diisostearyl adipate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityltetra-isononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; triisopropylcitrate; triisostearyl citrate; and trioctyldodecyl citrate. Preferablythe acid and the alcohol of the ester are saturated.

Among the abovementioned esters it is preferred to use isopropylpalmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branchedalkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, t-butyl myristate, and2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, andisobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and isononyl isononanate.

The esters of a C7-C30 aromatic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol are preferablyesters of a C7-C17 aromatic acid and a C1-C20 alcohol. These esters arepreferably C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, isostearyl benzoate, octyldodecylbenzoate, behenyl benzoate, and 2-ethylhexyl benzoate.

A mixture of all of the abovementioned esters may be used.

In accordance with the invention the carboxylic ester or esters canrepresent from 0.001% to less than 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 8% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.05% to 6% by weight,of the total weight of the final composition.

The type-1) ester/starch weight ratio is preferably less than or equalto 1.5 and more preferably less than 1. When the composition contains atype-2) ester the ester/starch ratio is preferably less than 2.5 andmore preferably less than 2.

In accordance with one preferred embodiment the compositions accordingto the invention further comprise at least one hair benefit agent suchas, silicones, vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils or syntheticoils, waxes, ceramides, pseudoceramides, cationic polymers, sunscreens,and vitamins.

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are,for example, polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in the compositionand can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in the work by WalterNOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968) Academic Press. Theymay be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more preferably chosen fromthose having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and evenmore preferably from (i) cyclic silicones or (ii) linear silicones:

cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 siliconatoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold underthe name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2by Rhône-Poulenc, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the nameVolatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 byRhône-Poulenc, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of cyclic silicones according to the invention, mention mayalso be made of cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, having the chemical structure:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones withorganosilicon compounds, such as the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms andhaving a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25° C. Anexample is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200 by thecompany Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are alsodescribed in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91,January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone Fluids forCosmetics”.

Nonvolatile silicones, more preferably, polyalkylsiloxanes,polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins,polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixturesthereof, can also be used according to the invention.

These silicones are more preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes,among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanescontaining trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of from 5×10⁻⁶to 2.5 m²/s at 25° C. and preferably 1×10⁻⁵ to 1 m²/s. The viscosity ofthe silicones is measured, for example, at 25° C. according to ASTMstandard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimitingmanner, of the following commercial products as examples which can beused according to the invention:

-   the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils    sold by Rhône-Poulenc, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500    000;-   the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc;-   the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as,    more preferably, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt;-   the Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF    series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

As further examples, mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanescontaining dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to theCTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the companyRhône-Poulenc.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of theproducts sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the companyGoldschmidt, which are poly(C₁-C₂₀)alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen preferably from linear and/orbranched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes andpolydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10⁻⁵ to 5×10⁻²m²/s at 25° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way ofexample, of the products sold under the following names:

-   the Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from Rhône-Poulenc;-   the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from Rhône-Poulenc;-   the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;-   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;-   the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the    products PN1000 and PH1000;-   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF    1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are,preferably, polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecularmasses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in asolvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones,polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils,isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane ortridecanes, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, by way of examples, of the following preferredproducts:

-   polydimethylsiloxane,-   polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,-   polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane,-   polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane,-   polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinyl-siloxane.

Products that can be used more preferably in accordance with theinvention are mixtures such as:

-   mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the    chain end (referred to as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature    in the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane    (referred to as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature in the    CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company    Dow Corning;-   mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic    silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the    company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding    to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500    000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to    decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;-   mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more preferably    of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the    company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE    30 gum defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m²/s, and an SF 96    oil, with a viscosity of 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s. This product preferably    contains 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the followingunits: R₂SiO_(2/2), R₃SiO_(1/2), RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2) in which Rrepresents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms ora phenyl group. Among these products, those preferred are the ones inwhich R denotes a C₁-C₄ lower alkyl radical, more preferably methyl, ora phenyl radical.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under thename Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones ofdimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made, by way of example, of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 andX21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with theinvention are silicones as defined above and containing in theirstructure one or more organofunctional groups attached via ahydrocarbon-based radical.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made ofpolyorganosiloxanes as examples comprising:

-   polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising    C₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone    copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or    the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union    Carbide, and the (C12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company    Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;-   substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold    under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company    Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow    Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine    groups are, for example, C₁-C₄ aminoalkyl groups;-   thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and    GP 71 from Genesee;-   alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone    Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by    the company Goldschmidt;-   hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a    hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application    FR-A-85/16334,corresponding to formula (IX) below:    in which the radicals R₃, which are identical or different, are    chosen from methyl or phenyl radicals; at least 60 mol % of the    radicals R₃ denoting methyl; the radical R′₃ is a C2-C18 divalent    hydrocarbon-based alkylene chain unit; p is between 1 and 30    inclusive; q is between 1 and 150 inclusive;-   acyloxyalkyl groups, such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes    described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4 957 732 and corresponding to    formula (X) below:    in which:    -   R₄ denotes a methyl, phenyl, —OCOR or hydroxyl group, one of the        radicals R₄ per silicon atom possibly being OH;    -   R′₄ denotes methyl or phenyl; at least 60 mol % of all the        radicals R₄ and R′₄ denoting methyl;    -   R₅ denotes C₈-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl;    -   R″ denotes a C₂-C₁₈ linear or branched divalent        hydrocarbon-based alkylene radical;    -   r is between 1 and 120 inclusive;    -   p is between 1 and 30;    -   q is equal to 0 or is less than 0.5 p, p+q being between 1 and        30; the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) may contain the        following groups:        in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p+q+r.-   anionic groups of carboxylic type, such as, for example, in the    products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso    Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in    the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl    sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by    the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255;-   hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described    in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example,    of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use siliconescomprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of anonsilicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the mainchain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto said main chain.These polymers are described, for example, in patent applicationsEP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105, WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 andWO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037. Thesepolymers are preferably anionic or nonionic.

Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained byfree-radical polymerization starting from the monomer mixture consistingof:

-   a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;-   b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;-   c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of the following formula:    with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages    being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, polydimethylsiloxanes(PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit ofthiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid typeand of polyalkyl (meth)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS)onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylenetype, polymer units of polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use polyurethanesilicones, such as those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162and EP 0 619 111.

According to the invention, all of the silicones can also be used in theform of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

The polyorganosiloxanes that are preferred in accordance with theinvention are:

-   nonvolatile silicones selected from the class of polyalkylsiloxanes    containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a    viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m²/s at 25° C., such as the oils of    the DC200 series from Dow Corning, preferably that with a viscosity    of 60 000 cSt, of the Silbione 70047 and 47 series and more    preferably the oil 70 047 V 500 000, which are sold by the company    Rhône-Poulenc, polyalkylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end    groups, such as dimethiconols, or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as the    oil Silbione 70641 V 200 sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc;-   the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name Dow Corning 593;-   polysiloxanes containing amine groups, such as amodimethicones or    trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the presentinvention can be selected from all those already known per se asimproving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely those described inpatent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applicationsFR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596, and 2 519 863.

Even more generally, in the sense of the present invention, theexpression “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationicgroups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.

Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those comprising unitscontaining primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groupswhich either may form part of the polymer main chain or may be carriedby a lateral substituent directly connected to said chain.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecularmass of between 500 and 5×10⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10³and 3×10⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers mention may be made more preferably of thepolymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, and quaternary polyammoniumtype. These are known products.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of thepresent invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose etherderivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by thecompany Union Carbide Corporation, cationic cyclopolymers, preferablythe dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers soldunder the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the companyCalgon, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and ofvinylimidazole, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers ofmethacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)-alkyltri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium salts, and mixturesthereof.

According to the invention, at least one hair benefit agent mayrepresent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% byweight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the final composition.

The compositions of the invention further advantageously comprise atleast one surfactant, which is generally present in an amount of between0.01% and 50% by weight approximately, preferably between 0.1% and 40%,and more preferably still between 0.5% and 30%, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Said surfactant may be selected from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, orcationic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

The surfactants that are suitable for carrying out the present inventionare the following:

Anionic Surfactant(s):

In the context of the present invention, their nature does not assume atruly critical character.

Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or asmixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made(nonlimiting list) of preferred salts (preferably alkaline salts, suchas, sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts ormagnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all ofthese various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Amongthe anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be madeof fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic andstearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyllactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such asalkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well aspolyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₂₄) alkyl ether carboxylic acids,polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₂₄) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids,polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₂₄) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and theirsalts, preferably those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups,and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred according to theinvention to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts andmixtures thereof.

(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s):

The nonionic surfactants are, themselves also, compounds that are wellknown per se (see in this respect “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R.Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp.116-178) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature isnot a critical feature. Thus, they can be chosen preferably from(nonlimiting list) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolatedfatty acids, alkylphenols, alpha-diols or alcohols having a fatty chaincontaining, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for thenumber of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range preferablyfrom 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range preferablyfrom 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxideand of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propyleneoxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferablyhaving from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amidescontaining on average 1 to 5, and preferably 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups;polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethyleneoxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid estersof polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucaminederivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides orN-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that thealkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that are alsosuitable in the context of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric Surfactant(s):

The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not a critical feature inthe context of the present invention, can be, for example (nonlimitinglist), aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which thealiphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group(for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate);mention may also be made of (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines,(C₈-C₂₀) alkyl-amido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines or (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido(C₁-C₆) alkylsulfobetaines.

As examples of the amine derivatives which can be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of the products sold under the nameMiranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2 528 378 and 2 781 354 andhaving the structures:R₂—CONHCH₂CH₂—N(R₃)(R₄)(CH₂COO—)  (2)in which: R₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R₂—COOHpresent in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,R₃ denotes a β-hydroxyethyl group and R₄ denotes a carboxymethyl group;andR₅—CONHCH₂CH₂—N(B)(C)  (3)in which:

-   B represents —CH₂CH₂OX′, C represents —(CH₂)_(z)—Y′, with z=1 or 2,-   X′ denotes the —CH₂CH₂—COOH group or a hydrogen atom,-   Y′ denotes —COOH or the —CH₂—CHOH—SO₃H radical,-   R5 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R₉—COOH present in coconut    oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, preferably a C₇,    C₉, C₁₁, or C₁₃ alkyl radical, a C₁₇ alkyl radical and its iso form,    an unsaturated C₁₇ radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition,1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodiumlauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodiumcapryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodiumlauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodiumcapryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid,cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate soldunder the trade name Miranol C2M concentrate by the companyRhône-Poulenc.

(iv) The Cationic Surfactants May be Chosen from:

the quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) below:

in which X is an anion selected from the group of the halides (chloride,bromide or iodide) or (C₂-C₆)alkyl sulfates, more preferably methylsulfate, phosphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, anions derived fromorganic acid, such as acetate or lactate, and

the radicals R1 to R3, which may be identical or different, represent alinear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbonatoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphaticradicals can contain heteroatoms such as, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur orhalogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example selected from alkyl,alkoxy, and alkylamide radicals, R4 denotes a linear or branched alkylradical containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms. The cationic surfactantis preferably a behenyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).

b) The radicals R1 and R2, which may be identical or different,represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Thealiphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as, oxygen, nitrogen,sulfur or halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example selected fromalkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide, or hydroxyalkyl radicals, containingapproximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, which are identicalor different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester oramide function. R3 and R4 are selected preferably from(C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl and (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkyl acetate radicals; thecationic surfactant is preferably a stearamidopropyldimethyl( myristylacetate)ammonium salt (for example, chloride).

B)—The quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example,that of formula (V) below:

in which R₅ represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to30 carbon atoms, for example, fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R₆represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or an alkyl or alkenylradical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₇ represents a C₁-C₄alkyl radical, R₈ represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, Xis an anion selected from the group of the halides, phosphates,acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates.Preferably R₅ and R₆ denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl radicalscontaining from to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivativesof tallow, R₇ denotes methyl, R₈ denotes hydrogen. Such a product is,for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997),which are sold under the names “REWOQUAT” W 75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPGby the company WITCO,

C)—the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) below:

in which R₉ denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from16 to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃, and R₁₄, identical ordifferent, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containingfrom 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group ofthe halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, or methyl sulfates.Quaternary diammonium salts of this kind include preferablypropanetallowdiammonium dichloride.

D)—The quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function,of formula (VII) below:

in which:

-   R₁₅ is selected from C₁-C₆ alkyl radicals and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or    dihydroxyalkyl radicals;-   R₁₆ is selected from:    -   the radical    -   linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon        radicals R₂₀,    -   the hydrogen atom,-   R₁₈ is selected from:    -   the radical    -   linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon        radicals R₂₂,    -   the hydrogen atom,-   R₁₇, R₁₉, and R₂₁, identical or different, are selected from linear    or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals;-   n, p, and r, identical or different, are integers with a value of    from 2 to 6;-   y is an integer with a value of from 1 to 10;-   x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value of from 0    to 10;-   X⁻ is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; with the    proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15 in value, that when x is    0 then R₁₆ denotes R₂₀, and when z is 0 then R₁₈ denotes R₂₂.

The ammonium salts of formula (VII) is more preferably used, in which:

-   R₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,-   x and y are equal to 1;-   z is equal to 0 or 1;-   n, p, and r equal to 2;-   R₁₆ is selected from:    -   the radical    -   methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals    -   the hydrogen atom;-   R₁₇, R₁₉ and R₂₁, identical or different, are selected from linear    or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals;-   R₁₈ is selected from:    -   the radical    -   the hydrogen atom;        Compounds of this kind are sold for example under the names        DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company        STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, and REWOQUAT WE 18 by the        company REWO-WITCO.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts preference is given tobehenyltrimethylammonium chloride or else thestearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold underthe name CERAPHYL 70 by the company VAN DYK, Quaternium-27 orQuaternium-83, which are sold by the company WITCO.

The composition comprises preferably from 30 to 99% of water, preferablyfrom 50 to 95% of water, and more preferably still from 70 to 95% byweight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium comprises water alone or amixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected fromC₁-C₄ lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertbutanol orn-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol; polyol ethers; C₅-C₁₀alkanes; C₃-C₄ ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C₁-C₄alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, and butyl acetate;dimethoxyethane and diethoxyethane; and mixtures thereof.

The pH of the compositions of the invention is between 4 and 8,preferably between 5 and 7.

The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additivechosen from thickeners, fragrances, nacreous agents, preservatives,silicone or nonsilicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, anionic ornonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolyzates, 18-methyleicosanoicacid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, provitamins such as panthenol, and anyother additive conventionally used in cosmetology that does not affectthe properties of the compositions according to the invention.

The skilled worker will take care to select any additives and theiramount such that they are not detrimental to the properties of thecompositions of the present invention.

These additives are present where appropriate in the compositionaccording to the invention in proportions that may range from 0.001 to20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Theprecise amount of each additive is readily determined by the skilledworker, depending on its nature and its function.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used morepreferably for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair,the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips or the scalp,and more preferably the hair.

The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a rinse-out orleave-in conditioner, perming, hair-straightening, coloring or bleachingcompositions, or alternatively in the form of rinse-out compositions tobe applied before or after coloring, bleaching, perming orhairstraightening, or else between the two steps of a perming orhair-straightening operation.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention the composition can be usedas a conditioner. When the composition is in the form of a conditioneror a care composition which, where appropriate, is to be rinsed out, itadvantageously includes at least one cationic surfactant, theconcentration thereof being generally between 0.1% and 10% by weight andpreferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

It may also comprise one or more amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

The compositions according to the invention may be detergentcompositions such as shampoos, shower gels, and bubble baths. In thisembodiment of the invention the compositions comprise at least onewashing base, which is generally aqueous.

The surfactant(s) constituting the washing base may be selected, withoutdiscrimination, alone or in mixtures, from the anionic, amphoteric,nonionic, and cationic surfactants as defined above. The washing basecomprises at least one detergent surfactant.

It is preferred to use an anionic surfactant selected from sodium,triethanolamine or ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄)alkyl sulfates, sodium,triethanolamine or ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄)alkyl ether sulfates ethoxylatedwith 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate, or sodiumalpha-(C₁₄-C₁₆)olefinsulfonate, and mixtures thereof, with:

either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives known asdisodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium cocoamphopropionate, sold bythe company Rhône-Poulenc under the trade name Miranol C2M CONC as anaqueous solution with an active substance content of 38% or under thename Miranol C32;

or an amphoteric surfactant of zwitterionic type such as alkylbetaines,preferably the cocobetaine sold under the name Dehyton AB 30 as anaqueous solution containing 32% AS by the company Henkel.

The quantity and quality of the washing base are those which aresufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and/ordetergent power.

Thus in accordance with the invention the washing base can representfrom 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight and morepreferably still from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of thefinal composition.

The invention further provides a process for treating keratin materialssuch as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists inapplying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as definedabove, optionally followed by rinsing with water.

Thus, this process according to the invention allows hold of thehairstyle, the treatment, care, washing or removal of makeup from theskin, the hair or any other keratin material, and more preferably thehair.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of washingcompositions for the skin, and preferably in the form of bath or showersolutions or gels or makeup remover products.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form ofaqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for skincare and/or haircare.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the formof a gel, a milk, a cream, an emulsion, a thickened lotion or a mousseand may be used for the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the lips and,more preferably, the hair.

The compositions may be packaged in various forms, such as invaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers to allow thecomposition to be applied in vaporized form or in the form of a mousse.Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired toobtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for treating the hair.

Throughout the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the percentagesexpressed are on a weight basis.

The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the aid of theexamples that follow, which should not be considered as limiting it tothe embodiments described.

EXAMPLE 1

A conditioner in accordance with the invention was produced, with thefollowing composition: Pregelatinized corn distarch phosphate 5.3 g AS(STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH) Isopropyl myristate 1 gBehenyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2 g AS Cetyl stearyl alcohol (50/50by weight) 4 g Water qs 100 g

The composition has a gelatinous and highly melting texture when appliedto wet hair. Its rinsability is good. The wet hair is not heavy and hairshaping is easy.

EXAMPLE 2

A conditioner in accordance with the invention was produced, with thefollowing composition: Potato fecula modified with 1.5 g2-chloro-ethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide(Solanace Starch from NATIONAL STARCH) Isononyl isononanoate 1 gQuaternium-87 (REWOQUAT WPG 3.75 g AS 75 from WITCO) Cetyl stearylalcohol (50/50 by weight) 4 g Water qs 100 g

The treated hair has the same properties as that treated with thecomposition of Example 1.

EXAMPLE 3

A conditioner in accordance with the invention was produced, with thefollowing composition: Potato fecula modified with 3 g2-chloro-ethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide(Solanace Starch from NATIONAL STARCH) C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 5 g(FINSOLV TN from GOLDSCHMIDT) Benzophenone-3 (UVINUL M40 from BASF) 1 gIsopropyl myristate 0.8 g Quaternium-87 (REWOQUAT WPG 3.75 g AS 75 fromWITCO) Cetyl stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 4 g Water qs 100 g

The treated hair has the same properties as that treated with thecomposition of Example 1.

EXAMPLE 4

A conditioner in accordance with the invention was produced, with thefollowing composition: Potato fecula modified with 3 g2-chloroethylamidodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide(Solanace Starch from NATIONAL STARCH) Isopropyl myristate 0.6 g Mixtureof cetyl stearyl alcohol 5 g (50/50 by weight) and ethoxylated cetylstearyl alcohol (30 EO) (SINNOWAX AO from COGNIS) Water qs 100 g

The treated hair has the same properties as that treated with thecomposition of Example 1.

Although the invention herein has been described with reference toparticular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodimentsare merely illustrative of the principles and applications of thepresent invention. It is therefore to be understood that numerousmodifications may be made to the illustrative embodiments and that otherarrangements may be devised without departing from the spirit and scopeof the present invention as defined by the appended claims.

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium,at least one starch, at least one carboxylic ester in an amount of up to10% based on the weight of said cosmetic composition wherein saidcarboxylic ester is selected from 1) liquid esters of a C3-C30carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol, wherein at least one of said acidor said alcohol is branched or possesses at least one carbon-carbondouble bond, 2) esters of a C7-C30 aromatic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol,wherein said aromatic acid has carboxyl group directly bonded to saidaromatic acid's ring; at least 30% by weight of water relative to thetotal weight of said composition, and up to 20% by weight of fatty phaserelative to the total weight of said composition, with the provisos thatsaid cosmetic composition is substantially free from fatty acid soap,said cosmetic composition is free of nonsilicone cationic polymer ifsaid starch is a starch phosphate, and said carboxylic ester is notisopropyl palmitate or diisopropyl adipate, if said cosmetic compositionfurther comprises at least one thickener and less than 3% by weight ofsurfactant relative to the weight of the composition.
 2. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein said starch is a corn starch, ricestarch, manioc starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch,wheat starch, sorghum starch, or pea starch.
 3. The cosmetic compositionof claim 1, wherein said starch is modified by one or more of thefollowing reactions.
 4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, whereinsaid starch is monostarch phosphates, distarch phosphates, tristarchphosphate or a mixture thereof.
 5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1,wherein said starch is an amphoteric starch.
 6. The cosmetic compositionof claim 1, wherein said carboxylic ester is octyldodecyl behenate;isocetyl behenate; isocetyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; linoleyllactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; decyloleate; isocetyl isotearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate;isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearylpalmitate; myristyl isostearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexylisononate; octyl isostearate; octyldodecyl erucate; isopropylpalmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branchedalkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, t-butyl myristate,2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, isobutylstearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyladipate; diisostearyl adipate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; or trioctyldodecyl citrate.7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein said carboxylic ester isisopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,branched alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, t-butylmyristate, and 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl isostearate, butylisostearate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, or isononylisononanate.
 8. The cosmetic composition according of claim 1, whereinsaid carboxylic ester is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate,octyldodecyl benzoate, behenyl benzoate, or 2-ethylhexyl benzoate. 9.The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least onehair benefit agent.
 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, whereinsaid starch is present at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 20% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 11. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein said carboxylic ester is present at aconcentration ranging from 0.001% to less than 10% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 12. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 9, wherein said hair benefit agent is present at a concentrationranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 13. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, further comprisingat least one surfactant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric,cationic surfactant or a mixtures thereof.
 14. The cosmetic compositionof claim 9, further comprising a cationic surfactant or a mixturesthereof.
 15. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein saidsurfactant is present at a concentration from 0.01% to 50% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 16. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein said cosmetic composition is a shampoo,conditioner, composition for perming, straightening, coloring orbleaching the hair, rinse-off composition to be applied between the twosteps of a perming or hair-straightening operation, styling gel, stylingspray, styling mousse or washing composition for the body.
 17. A methodof washing or caring for keratinous materials by applying said cosmeticcomposition according to claim 1 to keratinous materials.
 18. A methodof treating or conditioning keratinous materials by applying saidcosmetic composition according to claim 1 to keratinous materials. 19.The method of washing and caring keratinous materials of claim 17,wherein said cosmetic composition is a shampoo, conditioner, compositionfor perming, straightening, coloring or bleaching the hair, rinse-offcomposition to be applied between the two steps of perming orhair-straightening operation, gel, spray, mousse, lotion, cream emulsionor washing composition for body.
 20. The method of washing or caringkeratinous materials of claim 17, further comprising rinsing saidcosmetic composition with water.
 21. The method of washing and caringkeratinous materials of claim 18, wherein said cosmetic composition is ashampoo, conditioner, composition for perming, straightening, coloringor bleaching the hair, rinse-off composition to be applied between thetwo steps of perming or hair-straightening operation, gel, spray,mousse, lotion, cream emulsion or washing composition for body.
 22. Themethod of washing or caring keratinous materials of claim 18, furthercomprising rinsing said cosmetic composition with water.
 23. Thecosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one starch is aplurality of starches.
 24. The cosmetic composition of claim 10, whereinsaid starch is present at a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 15% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 25. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 24, wherein said starch is present at aconcentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 26. The cosmetic composition of claim 1,wherein said at least one carboxylic ester is a plurality of carboxylicesters.
 27. The cosmetic composition of claim 11, wherein saidcarboxylic ester is present at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 8%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 28. Thecosmetic composition of claim 27, wherein said carboxylic ester ispresent at a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 6% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 29. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 9, wherein said at least one hair benefit agent is a pluralityhair benefit agents.
 30. The cosmetic composition of claim 12, whereinsaid hair benefit agent is present at a concentration ranging from 0.01%to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 31.The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least onesurfactant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationicsurfactant or a mixture thereof.
 32. The cosmetic composition accordingto claim 13, wherein said at least one surfactant is a plurality ofsurfactants.
 33. The cosmetic composition of claim 31, wherein said atleast one surfactant is a plurality of surfactants.
 34. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 15, wherein said surfactant is present at aconcentration ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 35. The cosmetic composition of claim 34,wherein said surfactant is present at a concentration ranging from 0.5%to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 36.The cosmetic composition of claim 31, wherein said surfactant is presentat a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 37. The cosmetic composition of claim36, wherein said surfactant is present at a concentration ranging from0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.38. The cosmetic composition of claim 35, wherein said surfactant ispresent at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 39. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 3, wherein said reaction is pregelatinization, oxidation,crosslinking, esterification or thermal treatment.
 40. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 9, wherein said hair benefit agent is a vegetableoil, animal oil, mineral oil, synthetic oil, wax, ceramide,psedoceramide, silicone, cationic polymer, sunscreen or vitamin.
 41. Themethod of washing or caring for keratinous materials of claim 17,wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one hairbenefit agent.
 42. The method of washing or caring for keratinousmaterials of claim 41, wherein said cosmetic composition furthercomprises at least one surfactant.
 43. The method of treating orconditioning keratinous materials of claim 18, wherein said cosmeticcomposition further comprises at least one hair benefit agent.
 44. Themethod of treating or conditioning keratinous materials of claim 43,wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least onesurfactant.
 45. A method of washing or caring keratinous materials byapplying said cosmetic composition of claim 9 to keratinous materials.46. A method of washing or caring keratinous materials by applying saidcosmetic composition of claim 13 to keratinous materials.
 47. A methodof treating or conditioning keratinous materials by applying saidcosmetic composition of claim 9 to keratinous materials.
 48. A method oftreating or conditioning keratinous materials by applying said cosmeticcomposition of claim 13 to keratinous materials.
 49. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein a ratio of said liquid ester of a C3-C30carboxylic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol to said starch is less than orequal to 1.5.
 50. The cosmetic composition of claim 49, wherein saidratio is less than
 1. 51. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein aratio of said ester of a C7-C30 aromatic acid and a C1-C30 alcohol tosaid starch is less than 2.5.
 52. The cosmetic composition of claim 51,wherein said ratio is less than
 2. 53. The cosmetic composition of claim1, wherein said cosmetic composition has a pH of between 4 and
 8. 54.The cosmetic composition of claim 53, wherein said pH is between 5 and7.
 55. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, further comprising at leastone additive.
 56. The cosmetic composition of claim 55, wherein saidadditive is a thickener, fragrance nacreous agent, preservative,silicone, nonsilicone sunscreen, vitamin, provitamin, anionic ornonionic polymer, protein, protein hydrolyzate, 18-methyleicosanoicacid, hydroxy acid, or panthenol.
 57. The cosmetic composition of claim56, wherein said additive is present at a concentration ranging from0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmeticcomposition.
 58. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein saidcarboxylic ester is not isopropyl palmitate or diisopropyl adipate ifsaid cosmetic composition further comprises a phosphorylated starchderivative, at least one thickener, and less than 3% by weight ofsurfactant relative to the weight of the composition.